**Decay fungi are living organisms which send minute threads called “hyphae” through damp wood, taking their food from the wood as they grow. However, these organisms indicate that moisture is present and that decay will likely proceed if a wood-rotting fungus becomes established in the wood. Although these organisms may discolor the wood, they do not break down wood fibers and thus do not weaken its structure. **Also, surface molds, “mildews,” and stain fungi are often found growing on the surface of damp wood and can be confused with decay fungi. These fruiting bodies produce millions of tiny spores which may, in some cases, serve to spread the decay fungus to other areas.
The lower surface has elongate openings (pores) or split-like openings (gills). The upper surface of the fruiting body is dull gray-brown and smooth. Gleophyllum trabeum forms bracket-like fruiting bodies. Small pores can be seen in the crust when it is examined with a hand lens. It is white to light buff when initially formed, but becomes brown as it ages and dries out. It has a waxy appearance, with shallow, net-like folds or “wrinkles.” The fruiting body of Poria incrassata is also crust-like. The fruiting body of Serpula lacrimans, e.g., is a rust-brown, crust-like structure on the wood surface. Fruiting bodies are usually “crusts” or shelflike “brackets” which are a few inches or so in diameter. **Although many decay fungi may grow for long periods without producing any external evidence of their presence, others produce “fruiting bodies” on the surface of decaying wood. It usually breaks up into variously-sized cubes, giving rise to the name “brown cubical rot.” Another type of rot results in a white or yellow discoloration, with the decayed wood being “stringy” or “spongy.” ** In one type, the decayed area has a brown discoloration and a crumbly appearance. **There are two main classes of wood rot. Green (unseasoned) lumber is a prime target for decay fungi. Most wood decay fungi grow only on wood with a high moisture content, usually 20 percent or above. **The key to preventing rot is to control the wood’s exposure to moisture and to employ an effective prevention and treatment program. However, there are no mud tunnels or mines in the wood such as seen with termite and other wood-destroying insects, nor is there any sawdust, which would be evident in the case of carpenter ant damage. **Blame for this destruction is sometimes incorrectly placed on termites or other wood-destroying insects. Current estimates show that replacement materials, needed to repair damage caused by rot alone, account for nearly 10 percent of U.S. They see it in structural lumber, log homes, eaves, garage doors, exterior door trim, window casings and other wood used in construction.
**Many homeowners are familiar with wood damage caused by rot. Even if the wood looks good after some time, the client should be aware that any future wood to concrete contact should be protected by a plastic barrier. If an inspector sees framing in a basement that has no plastic barrier under it, they should inform the purchaser of this situation. That is why anyone finishing a basement, no matter what age, should always place a plastic barrier under the wood. It is a continuous action of moisture.Įven if a plastic barrier is placed under the concrete before a pour, it will over years, wick some small amounts of moisture. Most times if you see a concrete floor painted, the paint will eventually lift off in some places. Concrete, even on gravel, will wick a small amount of moisture out of the soil it is placed on over the years. One of the biggest areas that concrete is poured, is a basement. I have worked with concrete and masonry over 25 years and have seen this millions of times. It just can’t be from the initial pour alone IMHO. It might have to do with its ability to act like a desiccant, adsorbing water out of the air like a sponge and then keeping the wood in contact wet.
There has to be something more to it than just the water from the initial pour.
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